Three Shine at Thirty
- Misstropolis
- By Jacqui Gal
A part of Casablanca's mural wall
Perhaps it’s only when you hit 30 that you realize—it doesn’t mean you’re old—only that you’re time-tested, proud and self-assured. Right?
Three Boston restaurants, each celebrating their 30th year in business illustrate this beautifully: Icarus the high-class perennial favorite; Harvest, the haute American classic; and Casablanca, the cozy neighborhood go-to spot, decorated with murals of its namesake film.
“We’ve never been the hippest, hottest, hotspot, but we’ve been real steady,” says Chris Douglass, a chef at Icarus since the restaurant opened and an owner for the last 20 years. “Food goes in and out of fashion, so we have to work to stay current while remaining true to ourselves – not just chasing fads.”
But it’s a thin line, says Sari Abuljubein, owner of Casablanca. “Establishments sometimes ignore the need to change as trends change.” In the early ’90s the Casablanca menu was updated from an eclectic mix of cuisine to a Mediterranean theme, which Abuljubein says, “has continued to be what people like to eat these days.”
For a sophisticated seasonal restaurant like Harvest, the over-arching style remains the same, but fresh talent—most recently in the person of award-winning chef Mary Dumont—injects vitality. “Food is something you want to believe in,” says Dumont. “If you keep changing, people don’t really believe in it. Restaurants that change their colors all the time don’t last.”
There was a time when it seemed that Casablanca might not last. In 2005, soaring Harvard Square rents, coupled with the allure of a career change had Abuljubein thinking of shutting the doors. “There was a lot of pressure on all parties to try and keep it going,” says Abuljubein. “It’s a darling of Harvard Square.”
According to Chris Douglass—who was drawn to Icarus when it was a foodie bastion in the as-yet-ungentrified, late-1970s South End—the gourmand population in Boston is ever growing. “Diners’ sophistication has really increased, so that raises the bar,” he says.
Dumont agrees. “People in the area are really jazzed up about food and having different menu items introduced.” When Dumont joined Harvest in August 2007, she spent time introducing the kitchen staff to her philosophy on cooking techniques (including on-site production of fresh pasta, gnocchi and cheeses). Then she rolled out menu changes. “The clientèle responded well,” she says. “Some pulled me aside and [told me they] were happy about the changes, so it’s been great.”
While buzzwords like “sustainability” and “farm-to-table” seem very of-the-moment, all three of these restaurants have long been dedicated to those ideals. Chris Douglass recalls that when he started at Icarus, he would ride his motorbike out to local farms and fill his saddlebags with fresh-picked goodies. “In those days the Icarus menu would change every day, depending on what we got,” says Douglass. “In growing season, I’d go out two or three times a week to a place in Weston called Land’s Sake, where it was pick-your-own vegetables.”
Casablanca owner Sari Abuljubein realized long ago that a locally sourced Mediterranean menu would far outshine the late ’70s classics like spaghetti carbonara, and revamped his menu in the early 1990s. Since then he worked with Oldways, a non-profit “food issues think tank” to create and promote the Mediterranean Diet Pyramid.
Harvest has long championed partnerships with local farms and gardens. “Since the beginning, the restaurant has always taken its culinary tradition seriously,” says Dumont. “It was one of the first restaurants on the east coast to really do what we’re doing… No business can survive by supporting itself alone, you have to support the culture and the community around you.” Dumont sees this process as a circle. “People believe in you and what you’re doing. They know that you’ve created a sustainable business for yourself and the community.” In turn, they patronize the establishment, which sustains the business, which continues to sustain the diners and the community. It’s sustainability, but on a different level.
Staying dedicated to one aspiration for more than three decades isn’t easy. Douglass likens his 30 years spent stoking the fires of his beloved—and often demanding—restaurant business to a pair of golden handcuffs.
Abuljubein agrees. “We start off being married to the business but then we find out that we’re really indentured slaves,” he says. “But there’s always a love affair with it. It’s a lifestyle.”
The Restaurants:
Icarus – 3 Appleton St. Boston, MA. 617-426-1790.
Harvest- 44 Brattle St. (on the walkway) Cambridge, MA. 617-868-2255.
Casablanca- 40 Brattle St. Cambridge, MA. 617-876-0999.