Jacqui Gal

Food

Bun in the oven

December 1, 2008

NYC’s second-generation chefs keep it all in the family biz

New York restaurant families, like Chinese dynasties, wield power and influence over the (eating) population. And when it comes to culinary lineage, oftentimes talent and savvy is passed down to the next generation of kitchen blueblood.

We spoke with three families—both parents and progeny—about the glory and perils of working in the family biz.

Filed under: Food || Published in: Metromix.com

An all-out munch-athon at the Wine & Food Fest’s showcase event

October 11, 2008

Since it’s the inaugural year of the New York City Wine & Food Festival, nobody quite knew what to expect from one of the showcase events: the Grand Tasting, a $150, three-hour tour through the kitchens of some of New York’s culinary heavyweights, held at Pier 54.

As it turned out, the event was a foodie paradise, with plenty of wines and spirits to sample alongside delicious plates from top chefs who were on hand to schmooze and tout their dishes.

Filed under: Food || Published in: Metromix.com

NYC Wine & Food Festival

October 1, 2008

The 411 on the city’s biggest food bonanza ever—and how to navigate it

Dedicated foodies already revere Chelsea Market as a mecca of great produce and crusty loaves. Now, that site is the major hub in a series of venues handpicked for the inaugural New York City Wine & Food Festival. The festival, which takes place from Oct. 9-12, is a four-day gourmet extravaganza, designed to bring the spirit of its South Beach cousin to New York City.

Filed under: Food || Published in: AM New York

Chef Shots: Wylie Dufresne

August 22, 2008

wd-50’s mad scientist shows us the genesis of his ice cream bagel

Don’t call James Beard–nominated chef Wylie Dufresne a molecular gastronomist. You’ll piss him off. Although Dufresne does use a multitude of advanced scientific techniques to produce both playful variations on traditional dishes and wacky new food pairings at his acclaimed Lower East Side restaurant, wd-50, he’d rather be called a “New American” chef. Or maybe just a “chef.”

Filed under: Food || Published in: Metromix.com

Secret gardens for good eats

June 19, 2008

Enjoy a delicious dinner under the stars at these hidden outdoor retreats

Nothing thrills us more than stumbling on a hidden restaurant garden — probably because, as New Yorkers, we often have to do without our own little patch. So with the warm weather here to stay, get some green at these hidden gems.

Filed under: Food || Published in: AM New York

Three Shine at Thirty

June 02, 2008

Perhaps it’s only when you hit 30 that you realize—it doesn’t mean you’re old—only that you’re time-tested, proud and self-assured. Right?

Three Boston restaurants, each celebrating their 30th year in business illustrate this beautifully: Icarus the high-class perennial favorite; Harvest, the haute American classic; and Casablanca, the cozy neighborhood go-to spot, decorated with murals of its namesake film.

Filed under: Food || Published in: Misstropolis

Betting on Beard

June 2, 2008

Our secret panel of industry insiders predicts this year’s James Beard winners.

Looking more and more like the Oscars every year, the James Beard Foundation’s culinary awards hit NYC on June 8. Hosted by Kim Cattrall and celebrity chef Bobby Flay, this year’s soiree will be held (for the first time) at Lincoln Center’s swanky Avery Fisher Hall.

To prep for the big night, we checked in with three of New York’s top industry insiders—an A-list restaurant publicist, a critic and a chef—for their predictions on how our local nominees will fare.

Filed under: Food || Published in: Metromix.com

Rusty Knot

March 20, 2008

You may feel like you’ve stumbled into a cruise ship’s staff rec room when you set foot in the Rusty Knot, located a stone’s throw from the Hudson River. It’s a slightly different tack for The Spotted Pig’s Ken Friedman, who co-owns the joint with Taavo Somer (Freemans). Commanding the galley is Joaquin Bacca (David Chang’s partner from Momofuku), who serves up a seafood-heavy menu of oysters, baked mussels and shellfish soup, alongside pretzel dogs, shepherds pie and a bacon chicken liver sandwich. The small space is wood-paneled and dotted with nautical flourishes, such as brass coat hooks fashioned as boat steering wheels and ceramic tiki glasses. The music is jukebox eclectic and there’s a pool table to round out the dive bar leanings. All that’s missing, it seems, are the old-timers, hoping to bend your ear with tales about how the neighborhood used to be.

Filed under: Food || Published in: Metromix.com

I Sodi

March 20, 2008

First-time restaurateurs Rita Sodi and Josh Dworkis have thrown their personalities into this compact West Village spot. Dworkis custom designed every inch of the interiors, while Sodi has created a menu to replicate the Tuscan palate of her childhood. Adding to the authenticity, Sodi’s mom (who lives just outside Florence) flew in this opening week, to stir, taste and give her seal of approval. “It’s all about clean tastes and simple ingredients,” says Dworkis. “We do a Branzino cooked in salt, it’s the best fish I ever had. The salads have only one or two ingredients, with the perfect olive oil and a tiny bit of balsamic vinegar. It’s just a simple, simple menu.” Pastas are rolled fresh every day, and the selection of Italian wines contains a few from Sodi’s own vintner friends. Dishes (including an artichoke lasagna, fried rabbit and risotto fungi) can be ordered to one of the tables, or eaten at the 15-seat bar.

Filed under: Food || Published in: Metromix.com

Festival of Lights...and bites

December 4, 2007

In honor of Hanukkah, we’ve pounded the pavement for our eight favorite Jewish treats. Herewith, our day-to-day gastronomic guide. Happy schlepping… More…

Filed under: Food || Published in: Metromix.com

Ready, set, choco!

November 7, 2007

Six restaurants in two hours: Our writer OD’s on choco dishes in a marathon homage to the Chocolate Show

Some offers in life are just too good to resist. Take this story assignment, for example. To celebrate the 10th anniversary of New York’s Chocolate Show, an entire week has been dedicated to the delectably gooey stuff. Pastry chefs at restaurants around town have joined in the Chocolate Week festivities by offering special chocolate dishes, cocktails or entire chocolate-tasting menus, with both sweet and savory applications.

The Challenge
My editor asked me to hit six participating restaurants in two hours, and chronicle my journey in a chocolate diary. Read more…

Filed under: Food || Published in: Metromix.com

Oz, you like it

August 6, 2007

Why do Australians add a slice of canned pineapple, beetroot and a fried egg to their burgers? Some might travel 19 hours to the bottom of the globe to seek an answer, but savvy New Yorkers know they can speculate on this mystery over cold beers and kangaroo skewers, right here in Manhattan. Read more…

Filed under: Food || Published in: Metromix.com